IS A SHIBA THE RIGHT DOG
FOR YOU?
General Characteristics of a Japanese Shiba Inu
Breed History
The Shiba Inu is the smallest of the "Nippo" style of dogs native to Japan. Nippo dogs start at the massive Akita and go down through seven sizes to the little Shiba. They all have the same shape and colouring, with a few special exceptions, which make each breed different. Things such as height, temperament and a few colours individual to each breed, but they are essentially the same style of dog.
The name Shiba Inu literally means "small dog", but whilst they have always been known as Shiba-Inu, they have also been known as the "Brushwood dog". This was because they were red in colour, and were most often seen scurrying through brushwood hunting small game.
The Shiba Inu are a tough little breed, which were used for hunting small game such as birds, rats and rabbits in the mountainous regions of Japan. Courageous little dogs full of spirit, they have lots of cat like tendencies and make wonderful family pets. However, they retain a very strong instinct for hunting, and this can lead to them going off on their own if not correctly controlled.
Shibas became very popular in Japan as a family pet, and once recognised, they gained the status of a precious natural resource. This then led to the dog being recognised by the FCI (world canine body) and the dog then went on to be shown by fanciers all around the world.
Temperament
Shibas are inquisitive, alert, and playful, and are a little bit aloof with strangers. They have their individual traits, which make each one special and endearing. Some like to drape across the tops of chairs like cats and look out of the window. Others prefer to sit and be cuddled and petted all day. Either way, they are hunters to the bitter end, loving to chase rats and mice and catch the birds. They are not one to be safe off the lead, tending to suddenly go "deaf" and race off on their hunt.
It is easy to see a small dog, but the Shiba is very much a big dog in a small manageable package. They love to rough and tumble and often take up the top spot in households with large dogs. Rottweillers, Akitas, any large dog is just right for a Shiba as they can play those roughest of games that the Shiba loves. In the case of smaller dogs it has been known for a Shiba to be just that little bit too rough for them. They do not tend to get on with same sex companions either.
For the size and extreme games they play, they can be a gentle dog, not often prone to violence or aggression. Yes they can stand their ground when challenged, but they do not actively go out looking for trouble. Many small dogs can have a reputation for uncertain temperament, especially with children, however, there are no nasty hidden tendencies in a Shiba, and that makes them ideal for the family. Children can play safely, but as with all dogs, supervision and training of both young children and dogs is simply common sense.
Where the personality is concerned, it is easy to see why they are often seen as cats that think they are dogs or visa versa. Scrupulously clean about the house and fastidious in their own hygiene, washing and preening themselves; the Shiba seems almost cat like. Their mannerisms often betray the cat tendencies, rubbing themselves up you for attention, almost purring when being petted, hunting mice and birds with cat like movements. Even the way they greet you, reaching out to touch with a paw, rather than sniffing seems strange. Strange behavior indeed for a dog? Yet suddenly when you are convinced they are a cat, they start acting dog like. Fetching balls, barking, coming to call (just to be awkward for once), even walking happily on a lead. Shibas have more levels to them than at first imagined.
Training can be fun, if not altogether one sided. Lead training is another thing entirely for the pup. The first thing you will notice is.. THEY SCREAM! A blood curdling "child being murdered horribly" type scream which makes you cringe in terror and wonder what the neighbors will think you are up to. Don't panic, all you did was put a collar on! This is the famous Shiba alarm, one thing you soon learn to get used to. Once the lead training is done, it is very rare to hear this "scream".
The Shiba is primarily a spitz type dog, but unlike most spitz that are famous for the noise they can make, the Shiba is remarkably quiet. Very rarely will you hear a word uttered. If they feel someone strange is in the neighborhood they will give a warning, but they are not prone to barking for longer than is absolutely necessary.
As a spitz breed, they are double coated which means that once or possibly twice a year they do moult their undercoat. It tends to come out quite quickly [over about a week or so] but they are not for the faint hearted with hair. However, in saying that, they are very low maintenances with grooming and exercise as they tend to keep themselves meticulously clean and active. They are very clever, and very easy to house train and can be extremely long-lived with the age of 16 years plus not uncommon.
To date, they are a very healthy breed, with no inbred problems, hence the fact that most reputable breeders will put breeding and export restrictions on them. This is purely to protect the breed from puppy farmers and also to protect our breeding lines.
SHIBA HEALTH
The Shiba Inu like many other breeds does have health issues, but on the whole is a very healthy breed. If looking for a puppy make sure you approach responsible breeders who complete health checks on any breeding stock for Glaucoma, a full list of Kennel Club Accredited Breeders who test their dogs can be found on the Kennel Club website. Glaucoma is a particularly painful condition (in "laymans" terms it is too much pressure behind the eye) and tends to manifest itself when the dog is about 3yrs old and will often lead to complete blindness. In the past only one test existed which was fairly invasive as it involved putting a lens under the eyelids across the eye of the dog to check the drainage behind it. Only a few eye specialists were able to perform this procedure, but we at Tigerbull have found a Professor who can test by putting the lens across the outside of the eye which is less invasive and traumatic for the dogs - hence all the Shibas at Tigerbull are all Glaucoma tested and their results are all clear. This test, called a Gonioscopy, only needs to be done once in the dog's lifetime, so although the costs are not cheap for future breeding purposes and peace of mind it is certainly worth doing.
Breed History
The Shiba Inu is the smallest of the "Nippo" style of dogs native to Japan. Nippo dogs start at the massive Akita and go down through seven sizes to the little Shiba. They all have the same shape and colouring, with a few special exceptions, which make each breed different. Things such as height, temperament and a few colours individual to each breed, but they are essentially the same style of dog.
The name Shiba Inu literally means "small dog", but whilst they have always been known as Shiba-Inu, they have also been known as the "Brushwood dog". This was because they were red in colour, and were most often seen scurrying through brushwood hunting small game.
The Shiba Inu are a tough little breed, which were used for hunting small game such as birds, rats and rabbits in the mountainous regions of Japan. Courageous little dogs full of spirit, they have lots of cat like tendencies and make wonderful family pets. However, they retain a very strong instinct for hunting, and this can lead to them going off on their own if not correctly controlled.
Shibas became very popular in Japan as a family pet, and once recognised, they gained the status of a precious natural resource. This then led to the dog being recognised by the FCI (world canine body) and the dog then went on to be shown by fanciers all around the world.
Temperament
Shibas are inquisitive, alert, and playful, and are a little bit aloof with strangers. They have their individual traits, which make each one special and endearing. Some like to drape across the tops of chairs like cats and look out of the window. Others prefer to sit and be cuddled and petted all day. Either way, they are hunters to the bitter end, loving to chase rats and mice and catch the birds. They are not one to be safe off the lead, tending to suddenly go "deaf" and race off on their hunt.
It is easy to see a small dog, but the Shiba is very much a big dog in a small manageable package. They love to rough and tumble and often take up the top spot in households with large dogs. Rottweillers, Akitas, any large dog is just right for a Shiba as they can play those roughest of games that the Shiba loves. In the case of smaller dogs it has been known for a Shiba to be just that little bit too rough for them. They do not tend to get on with same sex companions either.
For the size and extreme games they play, they can be a gentle dog, not often prone to violence or aggression. Yes they can stand their ground when challenged, but they do not actively go out looking for trouble. Many small dogs can have a reputation for uncertain temperament, especially with children, however, there are no nasty hidden tendencies in a Shiba, and that makes them ideal for the family. Children can play safely, but as with all dogs, supervision and training of both young children and dogs is simply common sense.
Where the personality is concerned, it is easy to see why they are often seen as cats that think they are dogs or visa versa. Scrupulously clean about the house and fastidious in their own hygiene, washing and preening themselves; the Shiba seems almost cat like. Their mannerisms often betray the cat tendencies, rubbing themselves up you for attention, almost purring when being petted, hunting mice and birds with cat like movements. Even the way they greet you, reaching out to touch with a paw, rather than sniffing seems strange. Strange behavior indeed for a dog? Yet suddenly when you are convinced they are a cat, they start acting dog like. Fetching balls, barking, coming to call (just to be awkward for once), even walking happily on a lead. Shibas have more levels to them than at first imagined.
Training can be fun, if not altogether one sided. Lead training is another thing entirely for the pup. The first thing you will notice is.. THEY SCREAM! A blood curdling "child being murdered horribly" type scream which makes you cringe in terror and wonder what the neighbors will think you are up to. Don't panic, all you did was put a collar on! This is the famous Shiba alarm, one thing you soon learn to get used to. Once the lead training is done, it is very rare to hear this "scream".
The Shiba is primarily a spitz type dog, but unlike most spitz that are famous for the noise they can make, the Shiba is remarkably quiet. Very rarely will you hear a word uttered. If they feel someone strange is in the neighborhood they will give a warning, but they are not prone to barking for longer than is absolutely necessary.
As a spitz breed, they are double coated which means that once or possibly twice a year they do moult their undercoat. It tends to come out quite quickly [over about a week or so] but they are not for the faint hearted with hair. However, in saying that, they are very low maintenances with grooming and exercise as they tend to keep themselves meticulously clean and active. They are very clever, and very easy to house train and can be extremely long-lived with the age of 16 years plus not uncommon.
To date, they are a very healthy breed, with no inbred problems, hence the fact that most reputable breeders will put breeding and export restrictions on them. This is purely to protect the breed from puppy farmers and also to protect our breeding lines.
SHIBA HEALTH
The Shiba Inu like many other breeds does have health issues, but on the whole is a very healthy breed. If looking for a puppy make sure you approach responsible breeders who complete health checks on any breeding stock for Glaucoma, a full list of Kennel Club Accredited Breeders who test their dogs can be found on the Kennel Club website. Glaucoma is a particularly painful condition (in "laymans" terms it is too much pressure behind the eye) and tends to manifest itself when the dog is about 3yrs old and will often lead to complete blindness. In the past only one test existed which was fairly invasive as it involved putting a lens under the eyelids across the eye of the dog to check the drainage behind it. Only a few eye specialists were able to perform this procedure, but we at Tigerbull have found a Professor who can test by putting the lens across the outside of the eye which is less invasive and traumatic for the dogs - hence all the Shibas at Tigerbull are all Glaucoma tested and their results are all clear. This test, called a Gonioscopy, only needs to be done once in the dog's lifetime, so although the costs are not cheap for future breeding purposes and peace of mind it is certainly worth doing.
FINDING THE RIGHT BREEDER FOR YOU
Often times, demand exceeds supply with Shibas and out of desperation, you feel compelled to take a chance. Find a breeder with whom you feel comfortable and work with him or her. The wait is worth it. Our advice is to visit the Kennel Club website and contact the breeders on that site in your area who will certainly have all the relevant health tests done on their breeding stock and be bound by strict breeding criteria as part of the KC Scheme.
Be sure you have read all the information available on our website. “Is a Shiba the Right Dog for You?”
The best thing you can do is not to be in a hurry and to rely on your own good instincts as to whether you are dealing with a breeder who is right for you. If it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't. Under no circumstances part with any money before seeing the puppies with their mother and siblings. Internet purchases for puppies is not a good idea and usually ends up as a scam or the puppies being imported illegally from Europe. The following information is useful no matter where you decide to get a Shiba:
Good signs:
The breeder allows you to interact with his dogs and puppies except for the shy ones.
The breeder does not have an excessive amount of litters per year.
The breeder has a good contract that protects you as well as himself, guarantees health, and expresses a willingness to take the puppy back if you are not satisfied. For the latter, he may or may not be willing to make restitution.
The breeder raises his puppies in the house or in an area where they can be easily socialized.
The breeder does all his health checks as listed with BVA
The breeder responds to your emails or phone calls (as long as you don't go overboard).
Red flags:
Filthy conditions
Selling puppies under 7 to 8 weeks of age. Puppies being sold by another party other than then breeder.
Excessive bad-mouthing of other breeders.
A breeder who says his dogs doesn't need the health checks or refuses to show you any health certification.
A breeder who says puppies are one price without papers and cost more if you want the papers. (Note that show prospects are more expensive than pets, but registration applications should go with all. Pets should be sold only on a spay/neuter contract and the "limited" registration should be checked on all registration applications for pets. A few breeders still withhold registration applications until proof of spaying or neutering is given. This may be done because the breeder has been "burned" by a puppy buyer who bred the dog that was sold as a pet. A limited registration does not prevent a person from physically breeding a dog, it only prevents the offspring from being registered).
Breeders who have puppies in several different breeds.
Breeders who breed "designer dogs" such a Labradoodles or Peek-a-Poos.
Puppies listed on websites that promise instant gratification and treat live puppies as casual commodities.
Guarantees that seem very good but state that you must feed a particular brand of dog food or give a certain supplement or the contract becomes void, because you can never prove you followed those criteria. Read a contract carefully and be sure you can fulfill all stipulations if something goes wrong with a puppy. Can you prove you followed everything?
Even if all the good criteria have been met, you may still feel uncomfortable. Remember, if it doesn't feel right TO you, it is probably not right FOR you.
Be sure you have read all the information available on our website. “Is a Shiba the Right Dog for You?”
The best thing you can do is not to be in a hurry and to rely on your own good instincts as to whether you are dealing with a breeder who is right for you. If it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't. Under no circumstances part with any money before seeing the puppies with their mother and siblings. Internet purchases for puppies is not a good idea and usually ends up as a scam or the puppies being imported illegally from Europe. The following information is useful no matter where you decide to get a Shiba:
Good signs:
The breeder allows you to interact with his dogs and puppies except for the shy ones.
The breeder does not have an excessive amount of litters per year.
The breeder has a good contract that protects you as well as himself, guarantees health, and expresses a willingness to take the puppy back if you are not satisfied. For the latter, he may or may not be willing to make restitution.
The breeder raises his puppies in the house or in an area where they can be easily socialized.
The breeder does all his health checks as listed with BVA
The breeder responds to your emails or phone calls (as long as you don't go overboard).
Red flags:
Filthy conditions
Selling puppies under 7 to 8 weeks of age. Puppies being sold by another party other than then breeder.
Excessive bad-mouthing of other breeders.
A breeder who says his dogs doesn't need the health checks or refuses to show you any health certification.
A breeder who says puppies are one price without papers and cost more if you want the papers. (Note that show prospects are more expensive than pets, but registration applications should go with all. Pets should be sold only on a spay/neuter contract and the "limited" registration should be checked on all registration applications for pets. A few breeders still withhold registration applications until proof of spaying or neutering is given. This may be done because the breeder has been "burned" by a puppy buyer who bred the dog that was sold as a pet. A limited registration does not prevent a person from physically breeding a dog, it only prevents the offspring from being registered).
Breeders who have puppies in several different breeds.
Breeders who breed "designer dogs" such a Labradoodles or Peek-a-Poos.
Puppies listed on websites that promise instant gratification and treat live puppies as casual commodities.
Guarantees that seem very good but state that you must feed a particular brand of dog food or give a certain supplement or the contract becomes void, because you can never prove you followed those criteria. Read a contract carefully and be sure you can fulfill all stipulations if something goes wrong with a puppy. Can you prove you followed everything?
Even if all the good criteria have been met, you may still feel uncomfortable. Remember, if it doesn't feel right TO you, it is probably not right FOR you.
THE KENNEL CLUB BREED STANDARD
Shiba Inu refers to the smallest of the six original and distinct Japanese breeds of dog. A small, agile dog that copes well with mountainous terrain, the Shiba Inu was originally bred for hunting. It is similar in appearance to the Akita, though much smaller in stature. The Shiba Inu nearly became extinct in the latter phase of World War II, with all subsequent dogs bred from only three surviving bloodlines.
Shibas are fiercely independent and highly intelligent dogs. They have a reputation for aloofness with strangers, and obedience training is often difficult. Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest dog breeds.
General Appearance:
Small, well balanced, sturdy dog of Spitz type. Very slightly longer than height at withers.
Characteristics:
Lively and friendly. Bright, active, keen and alert.
Head and Skull:
Head appears as a blunt triangle when viewed from above. Broad flat skull, cheeks well developed. Definite stop with slight furrow. Muzzle straight, of good depth, tapering gradually. Lips tight. Black nose preferred but flesh coloured acceptable in white dogs.
Eyes:
Relatively small, almond, obliquely set well apart and dark brown.
Ears:
Small, triangular, pricked and inclining slightly forward.
Mouth:
Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws.
Neck:
Slightly arched, medium length, thick and muscular.
Forequarters:
Shoulders moderately sloping. Elbows set close to the body. Forechest well developed. Forearms straight. Pasterns slightly sloping.
Body:
Withers high and well developed. Short loin, level back. Deep chest. Moderate spring of rib. Belly moderate tuck up.
Hindquarters:
Long upper thigh; short, strong second thigh. Hocks strong and parallel when seen from rear, turning neither in nor out. Well developed. Slight but definite bend of stifle.
Feet:
Cat-like with firm, tight, well knuckled toes. Pads firm and elastic. Dark nails preferred.
Tail:
Set on high. Thick and carried curled or curved as a sickle.
Gait/Movement:
Light, quick and energetic.
Coat:
Hard, straight outer coat with soft dense undercoat. Hair on tail slightly longer.
Colour:
Red: Intense, clear red. White markings restricted to eye spots, cheeks, under jaw, forechest, underparts and underside of tail and legs. No white above elbows or hock. Red Sesame: Red with an even overlay of black guard hairs; black to be not less than 25%, or more than 50% of normal red area. White markings in Red and Red Sesame restricted to eye spots, cheeks, under jaw, forechest, underparts, and underside of tail and legs. No white above elbows or hock. The white marking on the forechest resembling the shape of a bow-tie. Colour Eye spots in Red Sesame may be tan.
Black and Tan: Dull black with a bronze cast. Tan markings restricted to eye spots, cheeks, inside of ears, legs and tail. White markings as in Red and Red Sesame. Tan markings only occur between black and white areas.
White: White coat with red or grey tinges. White undercoat.
Size:
Height: dogs: 39.5 cms (151/2 ins); bitches: 36.5 cms (141/2 ins ) with allowance of 1.5 cms (3/4 in) either way.
Faults:
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.
Note:
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Reproduced by the kind permission of The Kennel Club
Shibas are fiercely independent and highly intelligent dogs. They have a reputation for aloofness with strangers, and obedience training is often difficult. Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest dog breeds.
General Appearance:
Small, well balanced, sturdy dog of Spitz type. Very slightly longer than height at withers.
Characteristics:
Lively and friendly. Bright, active, keen and alert.
Head and Skull:
Head appears as a blunt triangle when viewed from above. Broad flat skull, cheeks well developed. Definite stop with slight furrow. Muzzle straight, of good depth, tapering gradually. Lips tight. Black nose preferred but flesh coloured acceptable in white dogs.
Eyes:
Relatively small, almond, obliquely set well apart and dark brown.
Ears:
Small, triangular, pricked and inclining slightly forward.
Mouth:
Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws.
Neck:
Slightly arched, medium length, thick and muscular.
Forequarters:
Shoulders moderately sloping. Elbows set close to the body. Forechest well developed. Forearms straight. Pasterns slightly sloping.
Body:
Withers high and well developed. Short loin, level back. Deep chest. Moderate spring of rib. Belly moderate tuck up.
Hindquarters:
Long upper thigh; short, strong second thigh. Hocks strong and parallel when seen from rear, turning neither in nor out. Well developed. Slight but definite bend of stifle.
Feet:
Cat-like with firm, tight, well knuckled toes. Pads firm and elastic. Dark nails preferred.
Tail:
Set on high. Thick and carried curled or curved as a sickle.
Gait/Movement:
Light, quick and energetic.
Coat:
Hard, straight outer coat with soft dense undercoat. Hair on tail slightly longer.
Colour:
Red: Intense, clear red. White markings restricted to eye spots, cheeks, under jaw, forechest, underparts and underside of tail and legs. No white above elbows or hock. Red Sesame: Red with an even overlay of black guard hairs; black to be not less than 25%, or more than 50% of normal red area. White markings in Red and Red Sesame restricted to eye spots, cheeks, under jaw, forechest, underparts, and underside of tail and legs. No white above elbows or hock. The white marking on the forechest resembling the shape of a bow-tie. Colour Eye spots in Red Sesame may be tan.
Black and Tan: Dull black with a bronze cast. Tan markings restricted to eye spots, cheeks, inside of ears, legs and tail. White markings as in Red and Red Sesame. Tan markings only occur between black and white areas.
White: White coat with red or grey tinges. White undercoat.
Size:
Height: dogs: 39.5 cms (151/2 ins); bitches: 36.5 cms (141/2 ins ) with allowance of 1.5 cms (3/4 in) either way.
Faults:
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.
Note:
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Reproduced by the kind permission of The Kennel Club
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